You'll find that replacing your factory speakers will make a noticeable difference. The music will sound crisper, more dynamic and closer to the original recording of the music and better than with outdated or inferior speakers from the car's factory system. Replacing speakers is also the most cost-effective upgrade you can make to your car stereo. And even the newer, factory-installed speaker systems, which may sound okay at first, are generally not designed to give you the kind of reliable, ear-friendly sound you can expect from a good pair of aftermarket speakers for years to come.

While manufacturers will specify a range of RMS or continuous power that is suitable for the speaker, the best results will be achieved by approaching or even exceeding the upper end of this power range. That is, a speaker with a lower RMS power range is better suited for use with a factory or aftermarket system, while a higher RMS range works better with an external amplifier. Typically, factory radios offer a power of 20-50 watts RMS. If you are using an external amplifier, you should choose an amplifier that is rated at the upper end of your speaker's power range. For example, if a speaker is rated for an RMS power of 100 watts, it will be close to optimum if your power amplifier delivers 100-150 watts RMS. It is better to overload a speaker than to underload it - the distortion that occurs when you push a low-powered amplifier to its limits is much more likely to damage a speaker than too much power. Rule of thumb: The RMS amplifier power per channel should be 1-1.5 times higher than the RMS power of the speaker.

In most cases, yes. Aftermarket speakers certainly sound better when they have a little more power, but most of our speakers sound good even with the factory power. Exceptions are tuned component sets and speakers with an RMS power of at least 150 watts or more. An additional amplifier should be used here.

The efficiency factor says nothing about how good a loudspeaker "sounds". They only indicate how well the speaker uses the power. If you are using a factory system with low power, you should choose a speaker with a higher efficiency (90 db and above). Low-efficiency speakers can sound good, but they need a powerful amplifier to produce the required power.

Speaker manufacturers use a variety of materials for their tweeters, such as paper, silk, ceramic, aluminum, titanium, polyethylene and so on. One material is not necessarily better than another because they all have different properties and reproduce sound in different ways. As a rule, paper is more responsive because it is so light, while composites are more durable. You'll find that silk and silk/polymer blends sound very smooth and even, and metallic materials like aluminum and titanium sound very clear.

As with tweeters, there is also a wide range of materials for woofers. They can be made of treated paper, aluminum, plastics or composite materials. Woofer cones need to be stiffer because they have to reproduce strong bass tones. Here too, paper tends to be less durable, but reacts more quickly than other materials.

With properly tuned component speaker systems, you get a better sound image and a much more detailed and dynamic sound than you can expect from conventional speakers. By mounting the separate tweeter closer to your ears, the imaging of the speakers is optimized and a richness of detail is achieved that you may never have heard before. The high-quality woofers deliver powerful, dynamic bass and midrange, while the separate crossovers properly distribute the highs and lows to protect your tweeters and keep your system sounding its best. Coaxial speakers are suitable in cases where there is no room for a separate tweeter in the car and you want to get the best possible performance from the existing factory speaker slots. Coaxial loudspeakers have a fixed tweeter directly in front of the woofer cone. They have a built-in crossover and separate high and low tones "automatically", making them very easy to install.

Check the crossover setting - many people think that a flat setting for the tweeters is the way to go, but you'll often find that you need to cut the treble to compensate for too much brightness Do you have enough power for the speakers? Most speaker systems running through your radio will not have enough power to drive them properly. Remember, it's more dangerous to underpower your speakers than to overpower them. Like a good subwoofer, speakers need time to acclimatize. Give the speakers a few hours of break-in time to settle in. Are you getting rattling noises and vibrations? Check your brackets - you may benefit from fitting foam silencers and aluminum butyl insulation in your doors.

Finding the right speakers for your vehicle doesn't have to be confusing. Masori has fitted thousands of vehicles over the years and has recorded them in databases so you can easily find out which speakers will fit your vehicle with the help of our support team. If you have any questions about the right speakers or would like to speak to one of our friendly advisors about speaker installation, you can always contact us. We'll be happy to help you find the right speakers.

With our loudspeakers in the "Vehicle-specific" category, you can rely on simple installation. For example, these systems are designed for 1:1 plug & play replacement of the factory speakers in your BMW, VW, Audio, Mercedes and other brands and have the same dimensions as the factory speakers. As a Masori customer, you benefit from free technical support via WhatsApp or email to help you find the right model. If you have a little manual skill, you can benefit from a wider choice and even better sound by using universal speaker sizes. The most common size of speakers for the doors are 16.5 cm speakers and speaker systems, which are often labeled with the size 6.5 inches. You can also find universal speaker rings in our store. The most common tweeter size is 1 inch, which corresponds to 25mm. These usually also fit with slight adjustments or with the help of small tweeter capsules on the original plugs or the A-pillar and the mirror trellis.

A crossover splits an input signal into two or more outputs with different frequency ranges so that tweeters and woofers only receive the frequency range for which they are designed. Frequencies outside the respective range are attenuated or blocked. Every loudspeaker system needs some kind of crossover. Component speaker systems come with separate crossovers, many with level controls for the tweeter. Every full-range coaxial speaker, where the tweeter sits in front of the woofer cone, already has a small crossover built in. Crossovers are usually small plastic boxes in which a circuit is hidden that splits the frequencies. All you have to do is connect the tweeters and woofers to the two connections marked for this purpose. The signal from the factory radio or amplifier is connected to the "amp" connection.

However, if you want to operate an "active" system, you need an amplifier in your aftermarket amplifier, which you can recognize by the frequency control on the side of your amplifier. Nowadays, all conventional amplifiers on the market have a built-in crossover. In an active sound system, each speaker (tweeter, woofer) has its own amplifier channel. This significantly increases the available power, the dynamic range (from the quietest to the loudest sound) and the control over the sound of the system across the entire audio spectrum. Almost all amplifiers have built-in high and low pass filters that can act as crossovers in a component system. The correct setting of the frequency ranges requires experience, and we will be happy to help you with this! In an exemplary active 2-way loudspeaker system with subwoofer in a car, the original audio signal could be crossed over as follows: The low frequencies (e.g. 80 Hz and below) go to the subwoofer. The woofers in the doors receive frequencies between 80 and 3,000 Hz. All frequencies above 3,000 Hz are handled by the tweeters. Bear in mind that the crossovers listed here are only an example and do not apply to every car or speaker system. The best crossover for one vehicle may not be the best for another. It all depends on the speakers used and the acoustic characteristics of the car.

If you are looking for a subwoofer that produces maximum sound pressure (plays the loudest), you need to consider sensitivity, enclosure type and available power. Opt for an enclosure subwoofer with high efficiency (sensitivity) housed in an enclosure with a bass reflex port or mentioned as the enclosure recommendation of single subwoofer drivers "bass reflex". Masori's support team will be happy to help you with your selection. Next, drive the subwoofer with an amplifier whose output power is in the recommended power range of your subwoofer (preferably in the upper third of this range) or slightly above with a factor of 1-1.5 above the RMS power of the subwoofer. This will give you the sound you want to hear. Using an amplifier with a "bass boost" control can also be helpful. Also consider a system with multiple subwoofers. They require more power, but play louder.

To experience the deepest bass possible, choose a large bass speaker designed for use in a closed cabinet or large bass reflex cabinet. These types of enclosures are the best choice for reproducing a frequency response down to the deepest bass range. Sufficient wattage is also a must if you want to hear the deepest bass tones. A woofer with a very low frequency response can help to produce extremely low tones. Also, larger woofers can often play deeper than smaller woofers due to their size and excursion capability. Look for a high XMAX here, which indicates the excursion of the cone in millimeters. The deeper a subwoofer plays, the more excursion it needs, as the low frequencies require a lot of energy. The most commonly chosen subwoofer size is 12 inches (30 cm), which indicates the diameter of the cone. The larger the size, the more space you need in the trunk for the enclosure and the more power the connected amplifier requires.

Yes, there are several ways to connect an amplifier and a subwoofer to a factory system. In this case, you will need to tap into your car's speaker wires to access the so-called high-level signal from the stereo system. You can then use a high-level adapter to reduce the signal strength and pass the signal on to the amplifier; some amplifiers also have this built in directly.

The correct answer to this question depends on which subwoofer you choose. In the technical data of each subwoofer you will find a recommended power range (in continuous or RMS watts). As a general rule: more power is better, because bass is very power-hungry. To ensure that your subwoofer really delivers, we recommend that you choose an amplifier that is in the upper third of the maximum RMS output of your woofer. As a rule of thumb, you can assume that an amplifier should offer 1 to 1.5 times the RMS power that a subwoofer is specified with in the RMS specification. The RMS power of your amplifier can even exceed the maximum RMS power of the woofer, provided you pay attention to the sound quality - if the bass starts to distort or "break up", you have reached the power limit of your amplifier/speaker combination. If you turn down the volume control a little, your woofer will be safe; clean, loud sound will not damage your speaker. This RMS power of the amplifier is only available when the volume control of your radio is turned up and the gain control of your amplifier is set correctly.

Absolutely. The only situation in which you would not be able to hear the bass from a speaker installed in the trunk is if your trunk is sealed and soundproofed. Normally, the bass will easily penetrate through the material separating the trunk from the passenger compartment. If you think you can't hear bass because your seat back and the parcel shelf material are blocking the sound waves, you can solve the problem by removing the parcel shelf, opening the ski bag hatch, and removing any speakers in the parcel shelf so that the sound from the trunk has a clear path into the passenger compartment.

The closed box and the effects on the bass sound: Tighter, more precise bass. Smaller speaker size Requires more power for louder bass A sealed box is an airtight enclosure for your subwoofer. A sealed box is best for any music that requires tight, precise bass. Expect even sound reproduction (not too boomy), deep bass response and excellent power handling. Since a closed cabinet usually requires more power than an open cabinet, you should use an amplifier with sufficient wattage for optimal performance. Sound characteristics of a bass reflex speaker: The bass is louder and boomier, less precise Larger speaker size More efficient, does not require as much power Bass reflex speakers use an opening (called a port) to amplify the low bass response. This gives you more power for a given amplifier output than a sealed box. Some people prefer the sound of bass reflex speakers for techno, hip hop, rock, heavy metal or other hard music. Bass reflex speakers can deliver stronger bass than closed speakers, but they have to be much bigger than closed cabinets. A booming bass has more punch and reverberation in each of its beats. The cone has greater freedom of movement. The port redirects the sound from the back of the cone and adds it to the sound coming from the front, making the bass louder. This higher efficiency means you can use a smaller amplifier than a comparable closed cabinet to play at the same volume. Another long-term benefit of an enclosure with openings is that the subwoofer stays cooler due to the airflow and therefore often lives longer than in a closed box.

A dual voice coil subwoofer has two separate voice coils (each with its own connections) and therefore offers more flexibility when wiring the system than a standard subwoofer. The DVC subwoofer can be wired in two different configurations: Parallel or in series. This allows you to wire the subwoofer according to your system design and preferences. The dual voice coils are specified with a resistance (the so-called impedance). A typical value is, for example, D1, D2 or D4. D stands for dual voice coil and the number for the impedance of each voice coil. D1 therefore has two voice coils and connections with 1 Ohm each, D2 with 2 Ohm each and D4 with twice 4 Ohm. Connected in parallel, the impedance is halved. Example: 2 ohms divided by 2 is 1 ohm connection impedance on the amplifier. In series, the impedance doubles to 2 + 2 Ohm = 4 Ohm connection impedance on the amplifier. The lowest possible impedance is recommended, as this is where the amplifier outputs the most power. Make sure that the amplifier supports the low impedance.

For the maximum possible performance and individuality in the box measurements, you should use a single subwoofer. A single subwoofer is just the driver itself - it must be built into a calculated subwoofer box to work properly. You will also need to power the subwoofer via an external amplifier. Individual subwoofers usually range in size from 8" to 15". There are models that can operate at low or high power, and function in a variety of different box types and sizes. There is the widest selection of drivers, perfectly matched to your individual needs, as well as different impedance and voice coil configurations, so you can choose the models that best suit your system. If you're starting from scratch when planning your individual system, choosing a subwoofer is a good place to start. We will be happy to advise you on what suits your needs. By the way: We can also build and calculate a subwoofer enclosure according to your dimensions and requirements. If you want more bass in your car quickly, easily and simply, take a look at our subwoofer enclosures. Subwoofer enclosures are supplied ready-built in a box that has been specially developed for the subwoofer. This means you don't have to build an enclosure for the subwoofer and don't have to put as much work into planning and building your system. All you need is an external amplifier to power the subwoofer. We will be happy to advise you on which amplifier is the right one. The special form of cabinet subwoofers: The active subwoofer box. An active subwoofer combines an amplifier and a woofer in one enclosure. As the amplifier is already integrated in the cabinet, you don't need much space. Many active subwoofers are compact and don't take up much space in your vehicle. Although powered subwoofers can be very effective bass producers, their smaller drivers and amplifiers may not provide all the sound power you want if you're looking for really powerful bass. On the other hand, their relative ease of installation and small size make them a great addition to the factory stereo system. You'll also find vehicle-specific subwoofers, either with or without a power connection. These subwoofers are designed to fit unobtrusively in many cars and are often color-matched to the vehicle's interior. Like the active subwoofers just mentioned, they may not be the best choice if you are looking for really big bass, but for most listening needs they are more than adequate without taking up much space in the interior.

Since mono amplifiers are usually Class D amplifiers, which usually support low impedances down to 1 ohm, they are a good choice for driving subwoofers - Class D amplifiers have a high power-to-heat ratio and excellent efficiency, which is exactly what you need when dealing with power-hungry low-frequency signals. In addition, a 1-channel amplifier offers the security of knowing that you are guaranteed to deliver the same signal to your subwoofers when operating several subwoofers connected in parallel or in series. Multi-channel amplifiers usually have individual volume settings per channel, making it difficult to set the same volume for all subwoofers.

The advantages of connecting two subwoofers to a mono amplifier are the same as any other number of subwoofers to a mono amplifier: you can drive the subwoofers with more power at lower impedances. Because low frequencies are less directional (i.e. it's harder for your ears to tell where low frequencies are coming from than high frequencies), bass is often transmitted in mono. Mono here refers to a single channel (as opposed to stereo or two channels), not a speaker. Most mono amplifiers have two sets of speaker terminals to make installation easier: If you connect two subwoofers to the amplifier and use a thick cable, you can attach the wires there without having to cut them. In reality, however, these terminals are connected together in the amplifier - both positive terminals are connected to the same point in the amplifier, as are both negative terminals. If you are using more than two subwoofers, you will need to connect them in parallel or in series (or a combination of both) to get as close as possible to the minimum impedance of the amplifier (see our subwoofer wiring diagrams for more information).

When bridging, two channels of an amplifier are combined into one channel in order to obtain more power. For example, a 2-channel amplifier that delivers 75 watts RMS per channel into 4 ohms can deliver up to 200 watts RMS into 4 ohms in one channel when bridged, which can be great for driving a subwoofer. There are no formulas to determine how much power you'll gain when you bridge the channels of an amplifier - every amplifier is different. Most 2- and 4-channel amplifiers can be bridged, so they can be used in a variety of situations and systems. For example, you can use a 4-channel amplifier to drive your left and right speakers with two channels and a subwoofer with the other two channels bridged together.

One disadvantage of bridging amplifiers is that you must be careful not to connect a load with too low an impedance, otherwise you could damage the amplifier. Amplifiers that work with loads up to 2 ohms per channel can usually only safely drive loads up to 4 ohms when bridged. The danger of operating an amplifier with too low an impedance is that the amplifier will overheat and burn out. Before connecting a bridged amplifier to a subwoofer or a speaker system with a low impedance, you should always check the minimum impedance specifications.

No, you cannot bridge a mono amplifier because there is nothing to "bridge". Bypassing means combining two amplifier channels into one to get more power. If you only have one channel, there is nothing you can combine it with.

Impedance is the resistance that the speakers offer to the current flowing from the amplifier. Every time you halve the impedance of the speakers, e.g. when you change from a 2-ohm to a 1-ohm subwoofer, you have to get the amplifier to double its power. Some amplifiers can handle this lower impedance, some cannot. So the most important thing you need to know about impedance is that the impedance of your subwoofer matches the power rating of your amplifier. For example, if the power rating of an amplifier is specified at 1 ohm, you can also connect a 1 ohm subwoofer here. Look at suitable amplifiers in your price range. Once you have found the right amplifier, look for subwoofers that match your amplifier in terms of power and impedance. Most subwoofers have an impedance of 4 ohms, but 2-ohm, 1-ohm and dual voice coil subwoofers are now commonplace, so it's easy to find subwoofers that get the best out of your chosen amplifier.

When we design systems at Masori, we usually start with a low-pass crossover around 60 Hz. Through trial and error, we've found that higher crossover frequencies tend to emphasize the source of the bass rather than the overall musical experience. In other words, you realize that the bass is coming from a box in the trunk. A crossover between 30 and 50 Hz will focus the output of your subwoofer amplifier on the lowest notes of your music (the ones you feel) and help the bass you hear appear to be coming from the front of the car along with the rest of the stereo image. Your own preferences are also important. If you prefer a hard-hitting kick bass or if your front speakers or subwoofers are small, a crossover frequency of 60 or even 100 Hz is appropriate.

As space is at a premium in most vehicles, it is important to find the right place to install your amplifier. An amplifier needs some space around it so that it can dissipate the heat that builds up during operation, otherwise it will overheat and shut down. Our two preferred installation locations are therefore under a seat or in the trunk. Installation under the seat saves space and the amplifier remains invisible. It also allows you to run shorter cables from your receiver. An amplifier mounted in the trunk compartment requires longer power and signal cables, but is safely hidden and closer to the rear speakers and your subwoofer.

The answers to most questions about fuses include the word "safety". While most car stereo amplifiers come with their own fuses, these fuses are only meant to protect the amplifiers themselves. You need to install a fuse on the battery to protect the power cables, your car and yourself from fire in the event of a short circuit. This is explained in more detail in the next two answers.

As space is at a premium in most vehicles, it is important to find the right place to install your amplifier. An amplifier needs some space around it so that it can dissipate the heat that builds up during operation, otherwise it will overheat and shut down. Our two preferred installation locations are therefore under a seat or in the trunk. Installation under the seat saves space and the amplifier remains invisible. It also allows you to run shorter cables from your receiver. An amplifier mounted in the trunk compartment requires longer power and signal cables, but is safely hidden and closer to the rear speakers and your subwoofer.

In the event of an electrical mishap, you don't want a live cable running through your vehicle. Installing a fuse with the correct amperage rating in your power cable will protect your car and equipment from the dangers of a short circuit. A short circuit occurs when a live cable comes into contact with bare metal (such as the chassis of your car). Since the entire body of your car can be considered a "negative" or ground, you can think of a short circuit as the positive terminal touching the negative terminal. You definitely don't want this to happen, but if it does, a properly installed fuse can prevent a fire or other damage. A fuse works by "blowing" and interrupting the flow of electricity. A fuse is much easier and cheaper to replace than your car or your life. So given the alternatives, "blowing a fuse" is a relatively good thing. You can optimize the protection your fuse provides by installing it as close to the battery as possible - this increases the length of the protected cable behind it. We recommend a maximum distance of 30 centimeters from the battery.

The following list provides a guide to the correct fuse values: 80A (suitable for up to 16mm² cable and approx. 1300W amplifier power) 100A (suitable for up to 20mm² cable and approx. 1700W amplifier power) 120A (suitable for up to 25mm² cable and approx. 1900W amplifier power) 150A (suitable for up to 35mm² cable and approx. 2100W amplifier power) 200A (suitable for up to 50mm² cable and approx. 3000W amplifier power) 250A (suitable for up to 70mm² cable and approx. 3600W amplifier power) 300A (suitable for up to 95mm² cable and approx. 4300W amplifier power)

Amplifiers are not usually supplied with the cabling needed to connect them. However, we offer a range of amplifier wiring kits that include everything you need to send signals and power to your amplifier. You will need a thick power cable that runs from the positive terminal of the car battery through the bulkhead of the car to the amplifier. The required thickness of the power cable is determined by the manufacturer of the amplifier - you can look it up in the user manual or online, we will be happy to help you make the right choice here. Make sure you install a fuse or circuit breaker near the battery. Without such a fuse, an accidental short circuit can be a fire hazard and damage your amplifier (not to mention your car). You will also need another cable with the same cross-section to act as a ground wire. You don't need such a long earthing cable because the earthing point can be close to the amplifier. The point on the chassis of your car where you screw on the ground cable should be cleaned and free of paint to ensure a firm electrical connection. The last cable you need to power the amplifier is a power-on cable. It does not need to be as thick as the power and earth cables (1mm² should be sufficient). It is tapped from the remote connection on the back of your radio or from the ignition lock or fuse box. The audio signal is routed from the back of your radio to your amplifier via a cinch. Your RCA cable should be long enough to reach the amplifier, but not so long that it has a lot of slack and could get kinked over time. If you are using a radio without RCA outputs, you can get the input signal from your amplifier through the factory speaker wiring, either behind the radio or through the rear speaker wires. Many amplifiers have high level or speaker inputs to support this type of setup. Otherwise, you can use a highlow adapter as an output converter to convert the speaker signal to the preamp/cinch level required by your amplifier's input. At the other end of the amplifier you need a speaker cable. Usually 1.5mm² or 2.5mm² mm thick cable is sufficient. Remember that current flows more easily through thicker cables.

Your car amplifier draws a lot of current from your vehicle's electrical system and therefore needs a sufficiently thick power cable so that the current can flow freely and without resistance. This is important, as otherwise your amplifier may underperform or even overheat and switch off. For the installation of a single amplifier, the required cable cross-section is specified by the manufacturer of the amplifier and can be found in the operating instructions or online. We are happy to help you choose the right cable! If you use thicker power and earth cables, your amplifier can draw the required current from the battery more easily. However, the cables must still fit into the amplifier connections. If you do not have the manual or are planning a system with several amplifiers, you should look at a 12V cable thickness table to determine the correct cable cross-section. 16mm² cables are suitable for approx. 1300W amplifier power 20mm² cables are suitable for approx. 1700W amplifier power 25mm² cables are suitable for approx. 1900W amplifier power 35mm² cables are suitable for approx. 2100W amplifier power 50mm² cables are suitable for approx. 3000W amplifier power 70mm² cables are suitable for approx. 3600W amplifier power 95mm² cables are suitable for approx. 4300W amplifier power

The thin blue cable is called the power-on cable as it transmits the signal to switch on the amplifier. The power-on cable runs between the amplifier and your radio. You don't want your amplifier to be on all the time and drain your battery every time you park. The power-on signal triggers an electronic switch in the amplifier that turns it on as soon as the receiver is turned on. The switch-on cable must be connected correctly so that the amplifier can be switched on.

The amperage of your battery determines how powerful the amplifier is that you can install. This will give you a rough idea of how much power reserve your car's system has. Next, you need to calculate the approximate power consumption of the amplifier you want to install. To calculate the current draw of an amplifier, add the number of channels to the RMS watts per channel (a 2-channel amplifier with 100 watts RMS per channel would draw 200 watts), add the power of other amplifiers. If these figures are too much for you, you will find a simpler solution here: A battery with a capacity of 60Ah is normally sufficient for a music system with 1000 watts RMS total power, an 80Ah battery for a system with 1500 watts RMS and a 100Ah battery for a system with 2000 watts RMS total. A capacitor (called a powercap) or an additional battery can help if your system has more power. We will be happy to advise you on whether you need a powercap or an additional battery.

The amperage of your battery determines how powerful the amplifier is that you can install. This will give you a rough idea of how much power reserve your car's system has. Next, you need to calculate the approximate power consumption of the amplifier you want to install. To calculate the current draw of an amplifier, add the number of channels to the RMS watts per channel (a 2-channel amplifier with 100 watts RMS per channel would draw 200 watts), add the power of other amplifiers. If these figures are too much for you, you will find a simpler solution here: A battery with a capacity of 60Ah is normally sufficient for a music system with 1000 watts RMS total power, an 80Ah battery for a system with 1500 watts RMS and a 100Ah battery for a system with 2000 watts RMS total. A capacitor (called a powercap) or an additional battery can help if your system has more power. We will be happy to advise you on whether you need a powercap or an additional battery.

Your ground cable should have the same cross-section as your power cable and must be in direct contact with the metal body of the vehicle. Look for a bolt or screw that is in contact with the vehicle frame near the amplifier. Remove the bolt or screw and scrape off the paint or dirt. A washer will help your ground cable maintain a firm contact with the body. Use a ring terminal on the end of the ground wire to securely attach it to the bolt. If you can't find a suitable grounding screw or bolt, you can drill a hole for it. Be careful not to drill into the gas tank, a gas line or a brake line. If you need to earth several components, try to earth them all to a single screw. How much power do I need for my subwoofers or speakers? The correct answer to this question depends on which subwoofer or speaker you choose. In the technical data of each subwoofer and speaker you will find a recommended power range (in continuous or RMS watts). As a general rule: more power is better, because bass and higher levels are very power-hungry. To ensure that your system really delivers, we recommend that you choose an amplifier that is in the upper third of the maximum RMS output of your speaker and subwoofer. As a rule of thumb, you can assume that an amplifier should offer 1 to 1.5 times the RMS power that a subwoofer or speaker is specified with in the RMS specification. The RMS power of your amplifier can even exceed the maximum RMS power of the speaker, provided you pay attention to the sound quality - if the sound starts to distort or "break up", you have reached the power limit of your amplifier/speaker combination. If you turn down the volume control a little, your woofer will be safe; clean, loud sound will not damage your speaker. This RMS power of the amplifier is only available when the volume control of your radio is turned up and the gain control of your amplifier is set correctly.

The impedance is the electrical resistance of the voice coil of a loudspeaker or subwoofer to the voltage output by the amplifier. In contrast to a fixed resistance value of a resistor, the impedance of a coil changes with the frequency of the signal. The "nominal" impedance of a particular loudspeaker or subwoofer is the value assigned to it by the manufacturer for meaningful calculation and application of power. This impedance represents the load against which the amplifier must work to produce sound. The lower the load on the amplifier, the more power it can deliver. Unfortunately, there are limits to how low a speaker's impedance can be before the amplifier tries to deliver more power than it can. The minimum impedance that most car amplifiers are stable for is a 2-ohm load on each channel, or a 4-ohm load for bridged channels, and 1 or 2 ohms for subwoofers. Almost all full-range speakers in cars have an impedance of 4 ohms. There are different impedances for subwoofers. You can combine multiple subwoofers in different configurations and achieve a total impedance that your amplifier can handle, so dual voice coils are often found here. When the voice coils of speakers or subwoofers are connected in series - one after the other, a plus from one to a minus from another - you add their impedances to get the total impedance. Two 2-ohm voice coils in series give a 4-ohm load. If you wire speakers or sub-coils in parallel - each terminal is connected to the same pole, plus to plus, minus to minus - you take the impedance value of one coil and divide it by the number of coils. Two 2-ohm speakers connected in parallel result in a 1-ohm load. For more information on impedance, please contact our customer service.

One option is a 3-channel amplifier with two channels for your front speakers and a separate channel with more power for your sub. But this leaves no room for future expansion. To get the most out of your investment, it's important that you choose a device that will serve you well now and won't be too small when your system grows. If you opt for a 4-channel amplifier, driving a pair of front speakers and a subwoofer is a breeze. You simply need to operate your amplifier in what is known as 3-channel mode. To do this, you bypass the rear channels to drive your subwoofer, while the front channels drive the two normal stereo speakers. When you bridge the rear channels, you combine them into a single channel in mono mode. Choose an amplifier that has a built-in low-pass filter for this bridged channel. The crossover and higher output power of the mono channel make this an ideal solution for driving your subwoofer. As your system grows, you can use a separate amplifier for your subwoofer. Then you could add another pair of stereo speakers as a rear fill and run your 4-channel amplifier in 4-channel mode.

Amplifiers are divided into different classes depending on how their internal circuitry works. In the world of car hi-fi, most amplifiers are either Class AB or Class D. Class A amplifiers always have current flowing through their output transistors (or tubes). This is an extremely inefficient way to increase power and Class A amplifiers are large, heavy and get very hot. The advantage of Class A operation is its linearity - Class A amplifiers produce the cleanest power with the best fidelity and lowest distortion of any other amplifier class. Class B amplifiers operate in such a way that each output transistor only carries current half the time and switches off when the signal is not present. Class B amplifiers are very efficient, but distort the signal by constantly switching on and off at the output. Class AB is the traditional amplifier design used in car radios, home theaters and stereo receivers. The output transistors are turned down a little when they are not needed. The result is good sound quality and reasonable efficiency (often 50%). With Class D amplifiers, the transistors are switched on and off quickly, which significantly increases the efficiency of the amplifier, sometimes reaching up to 90%. A Class D amplifier takes the input signal and transfers it to high current pulses generated by the power supply. This creates a slight distortion in the high frequency range, which is above the audible range and can easily be removed with a low pass filter at the output. Class D amplifiers can be very small in relation to their power. This is why they are increasingly being used in the mobile audio world, where space is at a premium.

If you connect a pair of speakers in parallel to an amplifier, connect the positive cables (+) of both speakers to the positive terminal (+) of the amplifier and the negative cables (-) of both speakers to the negative terminal (-) of the amplifier. If you wire two 4-ohm speakers in parallel, the amplifier will see a 2-ohm load. This lower load (lower resistance) allows the amplifier to deliver more power, but it gets hotter. Amplifiers that can cope with this additional heat development are considered to be 2-ohm stable. The series connection works in the same way as with flashlight batteries: Connect the positive terminal of one speaker to the negative terminal of the other speaker. Connect the positive terminal of the amplifier to the positive terminal of one speaker. Then connect the negative terminal of the first speaker to the positive terminal of the second speaker. Finally, run a cable from the negative terminal of the second speaker to the negative terminal of the amplifier. If you connect two 2-ohm speakers in series, the amplifier will be loaded with a 4-ohm load. This higher ohm load (higher resistance) inhibits the current flow from the amplifier. You get less power, but the amplifier runs cooler and is more stable.

Mono amplifiers with one channel are intended for subwoofers. They are designed for a wide range of impedances and have tone controls and filters specifically designed for bass reproduction. As mono amplifiers are usually class D amplifiers, they are a good choice for driving subwoofers - class D amplifiers have a high power to power ratio and excellent efficiency, which is exactly what you need when dealing with power hungry low frequency signals. Most mono amplifiers are designed for operation at 2 ohms, but some are also suitable for 1 ohm. Multi-channel amplifiers, on the other hand, are usually designed for 2-ohm loads on the individual channels, but must be able to handle at least 4 ohms when bridged. This is an important distinction if you are using your amplifier to drive multiple subwoofers, because you cannot bridge your multi-channel, 4-ohm stable amplifier to drive multiple subwoofers that have less than a 4-ohm load. Instead, use a mono amplifier to drive a 2-ohm load - for example, two 4-ohm subwoofers or two 2-ohm dual voice coil subwoofers. This will allow you to drive your subwoofers at the maximum power of the mono amplifier without driving them at a dangerously low impedance.

The advantages of connecting two subwoofers to a mono amplifier are the same as any other number of subwoofers to a mono amplifier: you can drive the subwoofers with more power at lower impedances. Because low frequencies are less directional (i.e. it's harder for your ears to tell where low frequencies are coming from than high frequencies), bass is often transmitted in mono. Mono here refers to a single channel (as opposed to stereo or two channels), not a speaker. Most mono amplifiers have two sets of speaker terminals to make installation easier: If you connect two subwoofers to the amplifier and use a thick cable, you can attach the wires there without having to cut them. In reality, however, these terminals are connected together in the amplifier - both positive terminals are connected to the same point in the amplifier, as are both negative terminals. If you are using more than two subwoofers, simply connect them in parallel or in series (or a combination) to get as close as possible to the minimum impedance of the amplifier.

One of the last steps in installing an amplifier is to set its gain correctly. The gain setting matches the input level of your amplifier to the output level of your receiver, ensuring maximum distortion-free music and minimum background noise. This process is also called "gaining in", as it is used to correctly adjust the "gain" or "level" knob. If your amplifier has a clipping LED, disconnect all speakers and only pay attention to the clipping LED instead of the distortion of the sound. Start with all EQ presets and tone controls on the radio turned off or set to low. Turn off all filters on your amplifier, set the bass boost to zero and turn the gain to a low value. Play some familiar music and turn up the volume on the radio until you hear the music start to distort, then turn it down a little to make it sound clean. If you don't hear distortion even at full volume, turn the volume of the radio to ¾ full. Slowly turn up the gain on your amplifier until you hear the music start to distort or the clipping light comes on, then turn it down a little so it sounds clean again and the clipping light goes out. Reduce the volume of the receiver to a comfortable level. Play the familiar song over and over as you continue to adjust your system. Adjust the EQ presets or tone controls on the receiver to how you want to hear your music. For a 2 or 4-channel full-range amplifier, turn on the amplifier's high-pass filter and adjust it to remove the lowest bass tones from the full-range speakers. These low tones would likely be the first to distort through the speakers when you turn up the volume later. With subwoofer amplifiers, you turn on the low pass filter and remove everything that is not bass from the sound of the subwoofer. The bass boost is another type of EQ or tone control, usually related to a particularly low tone. Experiment with it carefully and listen to how it affects the sound of the bass and adjust it to your liking. Readjust the gain control on the amplifier - first turn down the gain on the amplifier and then repeat steps 2 and 3. Turn up the volume on the receiver until you hear the music start to distort and then turn it down a little to make it sound clean. If you don't hear distortion even at full volume, turn the receiver volume to ¾ full. Slowly turn up the gain control on your amplifier until you hear the music start to distort, then turn it down a little to make it sound clean again. Re-adjusting the gain (the last two steps) is important to compensate for any EQ or boost effects so that the gain of your amplifier is set exactly the way you hear your music.

The RMS wattage is a measure of power capacity that is used to compare and match components with each other. The peak power, which is often twice as high as the RMS value, is only achieved during short-term peaks. You should only use RMS values when comparing and matching devices.